Alternative to Silicone Wood Filler for Door Frame
We're very nearly at the end of a very tiresome refurb of our downstairs area. As you can see from the photos, our builder has used silicone wood filler where the floor meets the door-frame. His reasoning is that any hard (setting type) wood filler would crack as you go through a year with the changes in humidity as the floor moves.
I think what he has done looks horrendous and I'm not happy with it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can make it look better?
flooring trim silicone wood-filler
New contributor
add a comment |
We're very nearly at the end of a very tiresome refurb of our downstairs area. As you can see from the photos, our builder has used silicone wood filler where the floor meets the door-frame. His reasoning is that any hard (setting type) wood filler would crack as you go through a year with the changes in humidity as the floor moves.
I think what he has done looks horrendous and I'm not happy with it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can make it look better?
flooring trim silicone wood-filler
New contributor
4
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
yesterday
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
18 hours ago
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
16 hours ago
add a comment |
We're very nearly at the end of a very tiresome refurb of our downstairs area. As you can see from the photos, our builder has used silicone wood filler where the floor meets the door-frame. His reasoning is that any hard (setting type) wood filler would crack as you go through a year with the changes in humidity as the floor moves.
I think what he has done looks horrendous and I'm not happy with it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can make it look better?
flooring trim silicone wood-filler
New contributor
We're very nearly at the end of a very tiresome refurb of our downstairs area. As you can see from the photos, our builder has used silicone wood filler where the floor meets the door-frame. His reasoning is that any hard (setting type) wood filler would crack as you go through a year with the changes in humidity as the floor moves.
I think what he has done looks horrendous and I'm not happy with it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can make it look better?
flooring trim silicone wood-filler
flooring trim silicone wood-filler
New contributor
New contributor
edited yesterday
Machavity
7,15211635
7,15211635
New contributor
asked yesterday
BellsBells
292
292
New contributor
New contributor
4
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
yesterday
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
18 hours ago
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
16 hours ago
add a comment |
4
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
yesterday
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
18 hours ago
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
16 hours ago
4
4
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
yesterday
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
yesterday
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
18 hours ago
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
18 hours ago
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
16 hours ago
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
16 hours ago
add a comment |
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse.
My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix.
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
yesterday
add a comment |
The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable.
Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap.
EDIT
To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous.
add a comment |
While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it and you simply want a quick fix to move on
Add more trim
Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap (assumes you have extra). Bevel the outer edge to avoid a hard corner jutting out. You will have to do this on the other side as well, but it would cover the problem area.
Use white caulk
The wood filler stands out because of the color mismatch (i.e. you match the color you can, not the one you can't). Since this is up against the baseboard, you could cover this up with white caulk and, unless you looked hard at it, you'd be unlikely to notice.
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
yesterday
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
yesterday
add a comment |
That is not properly done at all. The proper fix is to undo the trims and add floor where there should be floor. That may or may not be a huge fix, it is hard for me to know the size of the room or the distance from a place to start undoing the floor.
As for hacks, I'd fix it by shortening the door frame trim and lengthening the floorboard trim (buy a decent length, just adding a 2-inch piece will not look pretty.) It would look much neater - and don't take this the wrong way - but judging from the state of the trim between floors, that trim on the door itself and the state of the floor - adequate compared to the rest. Which is the point, it needs to not stand out.
add a comment |
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4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
4 Answers
4
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse.
My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix.
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
yesterday
add a comment |
While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse.
My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix.
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
yesterday
add a comment |
While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse.
My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix.
While re-doing the floor to go under the trim would be desirable, a hack might make things worse.
My best suggestion is a square edge plinth block to cover the mess. Maybe you'll have to do that with a few adjacent doors to match up, but it's an extremely easy fix.
answered yesterday
Aloysius DefenestrateAloysius Defenestrate
8,99411225
8,99411225
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
yesterday
add a comment |
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
yesterday
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
yesterday
Absolutely this. The contractor may have done a sloppy job but he's still right about the temperature changes.
– RedSonja
yesterday
add a comment |
The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable.
Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap.
EDIT
To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous.
add a comment |
The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable.
Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap.
EDIT
To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous.
add a comment |
The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable.
Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap.
EDIT
To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous.
The flooring is supposed to extend far enough under the door trim molding so that no sub-floor is visible. The gap you have is non-standard and is completely unacceptable.
Presumably you have some scraps of flooring left. The installer should scrape out the filler and insert a piece of flooring into the gap.
EDIT
To be able to work in the scrap of flooring, the installer might have to cut off a small amount (say 1/8") of the door trim, but this would be inconspicuous.
edited yesterday
answered yesterday
Jim StewartJim Stewart
11.2k11232
11.2k11232
add a comment |
add a comment |
While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it and you simply want a quick fix to move on
Add more trim
Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap (assumes you have extra). Bevel the outer edge to avoid a hard corner jutting out. You will have to do this on the other side as well, but it would cover the problem area.
Use white caulk
The wood filler stands out because of the color mismatch (i.e. you match the color you can, not the one you can't). Since this is up against the baseboard, you could cover this up with white caulk and, unless you looked hard at it, you'd be unlikely to notice.
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
yesterday
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
yesterday
add a comment |
While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it and you simply want a quick fix to move on
Add more trim
Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap (assumes you have extra). Bevel the outer edge to avoid a hard corner jutting out. You will have to do this on the other side as well, but it would cover the problem area.
Use white caulk
The wood filler stands out because of the color mismatch (i.e. you match the color you can, not the one you can't). Since this is up against the baseboard, you could cover this up with white caulk and, unless you looked hard at it, you'd be unlikely to notice.
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
yesterday
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
yesterday
add a comment |
While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it and you simply want a quick fix to move on
Add more trim
Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap (assumes you have extra). Bevel the outer edge to avoid a hard corner jutting out. You will have to do this on the other side as well, but it would cover the problem area.
Use white caulk
The wood filler stands out because of the color mismatch (i.e. you match the color you can, not the one you can't). Since this is up against the baseboard, you could cover this up with white caulk and, unless you looked hard at it, you'd be unlikely to notice.
While I agree with Jim that this was done wrong and should be redone correctly, let me offer a couple of other hacky solutions that would at least cover this up should the original workman be unable or unwilling to fix it and you simply want a quick fix to move on
Add more trim
Using a chisel, cut back the door trim and add some trim over the gap (assumes you have extra). Bevel the outer edge to avoid a hard corner jutting out. You will have to do this on the other side as well, but it would cover the problem area.
Use white caulk
The wood filler stands out because of the color mismatch (i.e. you match the color you can, not the one you can't). Since this is up against the baseboard, you could cover this up with white caulk and, unless you looked hard at it, you'd be unlikely to notice.
answered yesterday
MachavityMachavity
7,15211635
7,15211635
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
yesterday
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
yesterday
add a comment |
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
yesterday
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
yesterday
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
yesterday
+1. Can't really do a plinth block if there's no base shoe and it's just 1/4" round. Cut the door trim and extend the quarter round. I'd do the whole piece, unless there's already a 45 somewhere because it is two pieces. (to match them up where they splice - you still need to 45 the exposed end too. +1!)
– Mazura
yesterday
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
yesterday
Whatever yellow goo you can still see after that, hit with a brown sharpie and then wipe it off. White caulk is for where the new trim will meet.
– Mazura
yesterday
add a comment |
That is not properly done at all. The proper fix is to undo the trims and add floor where there should be floor. That may or may not be a huge fix, it is hard for me to know the size of the room or the distance from a place to start undoing the floor.
As for hacks, I'd fix it by shortening the door frame trim and lengthening the floorboard trim (buy a decent length, just adding a 2-inch piece will not look pretty.) It would look much neater - and don't take this the wrong way - but judging from the state of the trim between floors, that trim on the door itself and the state of the floor - adequate compared to the rest. Which is the point, it needs to not stand out.
add a comment |
That is not properly done at all. The proper fix is to undo the trims and add floor where there should be floor. That may or may not be a huge fix, it is hard for me to know the size of the room or the distance from a place to start undoing the floor.
As for hacks, I'd fix it by shortening the door frame trim and lengthening the floorboard trim (buy a decent length, just adding a 2-inch piece will not look pretty.) It would look much neater - and don't take this the wrong way - but judging from the state of the trim between floors, that trim on the door itself and the state of the floor - adequate compared to the rest. Which is the point, it needs to not stand out.
add a comment |
That is not properly done at all. The proper fix is to undo the trims and add floor where there should be floor. That may or may not be a huge fix, it is hard for me to know the size of the room or the distance from a place to start undoing the floor.
As for hacks, I'd fix it by shortening the door frame trim and lengthening the floorboard trim (buy a decent length, just adding a 2-inch piece will not look pretty.) It would look much neater - and don't take this the wrong way - but judging from the state of the trim between floors, that trim on the door itself and the state of the floor - adequate compared to the rest. Which is the point, it needs to not stand out.
That is not properly done at all. The proper fix is to undo the trims and add floor where there should be floor. That may or may not be a huge fix, it is hard for me to know the size of the room or the distance from a place to start undoing the floor.
As for hacks, I'd fix it by shortening the door frame trim and lengthening the floorboard trim (buy a decent length, just adding a 2-inch piece will not look pretty.) It would look much neater - and don't take this the wrong way - but judging from the state of the trim between floors, that trim on the door itself and the state of the floor - adequate compared to the rest. Which is the point, it needs to not stand out.
answered 22 hours ago
Stian YttervikStian Yttervik
1366
1366
add a comment |
add a comment |
Bells is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Bells is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Bells is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Bells is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
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4
This is an example of why I try to do everything project in my house myself. Finding someone that actually has pride in their work is difficult. This was just a flat out lazy job.
– Evil Elf
yesterday
Going to say, I'm no star of DIY but that's pretty terrible - also there's paint on the floor as well.
– djsmiley2k
18 hours ago
@EvilElf It's a double-edged sword. Most people are not willing to pay a proper professional for their estimated time so they end up finding some fly-by-night wazoo that has to YouTube the project while doing it.
– MonkeyZeus
16 hours ago