okay to use fatter/longer extension cord than spec'd for power tools?
I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?
I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?
powertools extension-cord
add a comment |
I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?
I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?
powertools extension-cord
Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.
– Mazura
2 days ago
4
I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.
– TimCO
2 days ago
What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?
– Mazura
2 days ago
2
@Mazura: No, gas is awful to deal with. Dirty, fumes, mixing oil, getting old, heavy and unwieldy to use due to internal combustion engine, etc. Just no. Electric is the only reasonable choice.
– R..
2 days ago
Horsepower is the only reasonable consideration, but to each his own.
– Mazura
6 hours ago
add a comment |
I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?
I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?
powertools extension-cord
I want to buy an electric chainsaw, rated at 15A (125V). Manufacturer specifies max 50' extension cord (no gauge spec). There are 50' 14 gauge extension cords that are rated at 15A/125V. Could I use a 100' 10 or 12 gauge cord? Is the basic problem just heat + power loss due to resistance in the cord? Any measurements I could do with my volt meter to make sure it will work okay?
I plan to use chainsaw for short periods of time, and when its cold out, to prevent overheating. The outlet is right below my main panel. Any other tips?
powertools extension-cord
powertools extension-cord
edited yesterday
TimCO
asked 2 days ago
TimCOTimCO
485
485
Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.
– Mazura
2 days ago
4
I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.
– TimCO
2 days ago
What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?
– Mazura
2 days ago
2
@Mazura: No, gas is awful to deal with. Dirty, fumes, mixing oil, getting old, heavy and unwieldy to use due to internal combustion engine, etc. Just no. Electric is the only reasonable choice.
– R..
2 days ago
Horsepower is the only reasonable consideration, but to each his own.
– Mazura
6 hours ago
add a comment |
Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.
– Mazura
2 days ago
4
I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.
– TimCO
2 days ago
What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?
– Mazura
2 days ago
2
@Mazura: No, gas is awful to deal with. Dirty, fumes, mixing oil, getting old, heavy and unwieldy to use due to internal combustion engine, etc. Just no. Electric is the only reasonable choice.
– R..
2 days ago
Horsepower is the only reasonable consideration, but to each his own.
– Mazura
6 hours ago
Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.
– Mazura
2 days ago
Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.
– Mazura
2 days ago
4
4
I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.
– TimCO
2 days ago
I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.
– TimCO
2 days ago
What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?
– Mazura
2 days ago
What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?
– Mazura
2 days ago
2
2
@Mazura: No, gas is awful to deal with. Dirty, fumes, mixing oil, getting old, heavy and unwieldy to use due to internal combustion engine, etc. Just no. Electric is the only reasonable choice.
– R..
2 days ago
@Mazura: No, gas is awful to deal with. Dirty, fumes, mixing oil, getting old, heavy and unwieldy to use due to internal combustion engine, etc. Just no. Electric is the only reasonable choice.
– R..
2 days ago
Horsepower is the only reasonable consideration, but to each his own.
– Mazura
6 hours ago
Horsepower is the only reasonable consideration, but to each his own.
– Mazura
6 hours ago
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw. The saw's motor has an optimal voltage range, and will not run well if the voltage is too low. The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord.
(Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord - the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.)
You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts. A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible.
If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood.
1
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
2 days ago
4
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
2 days ago
3
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
2 days ago
2
I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+
– Ed Beal
2 days ago
1
@marcelm, thanks, you are correct, that was a typo, fixed.
– batsplatsterson
2 days ago
|
show 4 more comments
Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.
I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.
2
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
2 days ago
"I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.
– Mazura
2 days ago
add a comment |
You can decide what is the maximum cord length you should use for yourself, when you figure your max cord length for a given guage wire with :
V drop = ( K x P x L x A )/( M )
Where:
K = aproximate specific resistivity in ohm circular mils per foot
P = phase constant ( 2 fir 1 phase, 1.732 for 3 phase )
L = Wire length ( one way not there and back )
A = current in amperes
M = wire area in circular mills
Values for K are:
11 for solid or stranded copper 77 - 121 F
12 for solid or stranded copper 122 - 167 F
18 for solid aluminum 77-121 F
19 for stranded aluminum 77-121 F
20 for both aluminum 122-167 F
The wire circular mils can be easily looked up.
You want the V drop to be 2% or less.
Calculate that with ( V drop ) / ( V input )
Answers to you 3 questions...
Can I use a 10 or 12 guage cord?
10 guage = ( 11 x 2 x 100 x 15 ) / 10400 = 3.17308 V and 3.17308/120 = 0.026442 (2.64%)
12 guage = 9(11 x 2 x 100 x 15)/6530 = 5.0536 V and 5.0536/120 = 0.042113 (4.21%)
So I'd say No (a drop greater than 2% severely decreases efficiency and life of the equipment.)
is heat + powerloss the big problem? Again no, a drop greater than 2% will shorten the chainsaw motor's life.
Voltmeter measurements.
Well yes, you could measure the locked motor current to find the maximum current draw the chainsaw will ever use, but the chances of that happening irl are small. You could also measure running draw at load to get a precise number, but that's a good bit of work for little return.
Overall I'd say move your power source closer (a generator?), get a gas chainsaw, or live with the shortened life expectancy.
New contributor
thanks for formula. Shouldn't we also calculate voltage drop on 50' cord since that's allowed per spec (assume 14 gauge?) and see how that compares to 100'? Do you have a source to back up that 2% voltage drop statement? I've seen 3% and 5% mentioned but nobody other than NEC says how they came up with those numbers.
– TimCO
yesterday
A few years ago I had to spec a 1000 foot range for a heavy duty construction robot and in my search for informationmation I found this formula in Pocket Ref by Thomas Glover. The book says it's information comes from NEC and when I checked NEC just now they say 5% so it may have changed but I still prefer 2%, as a safety margin I'd now say 2-5% is probably ok. And it wouldn't hurt to compare 50ft 14 ga just to be sure. Here's the chart engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-circular-mils-d_819.html
– Karæthon
yesterday
add a comment |
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3 Answers
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active
oldest
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
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The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw. The saw's motor has an optimal voltage range, and will not run well if the voltage is too low. The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord.
(Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord - the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.)
You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts. A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible.
If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood.
1
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
2 days ago
4
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
2 days ago
3
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
2 days ago
2
I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+
– Ed Beal
2 days ago
1
@marcelm, thanks, you are correct, that was a typo, fixed.
– batsplatsterson
2 days ago
|
show 4 more comments
The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw. The saw's motor has an optimal voltage range, and will not run well if the voltage is too low. The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord.
(Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord - the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.)
You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts. A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible.
If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood.
1
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
2 days ago
4
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
2 days ago
3
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
2 days ago
2
I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+
– Ed Beal
2 days ago
1
@marcelm, thanks, you are correct, that was a typo, fixed.
– batsplatsterson
2 days ago
|
show 4 more comments
The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw. The saw's motor has an optimal voltage range, and will not run well if the voltage is too low. The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord.
(Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord - the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.)
You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts. A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible.
If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood.
The issue here is voltage drop in the circuit supplying the saw. The saw's motor has an optimal voltage range, and will not run well if the voltage is too low. The voltage drops over the length of the extension cord; the longer the cord, the greater the drop. However, a heavier gauge cord will have less voltage drop than a lighter gauge cord.
(Voltage drop is a factor right at the receptacle, even without an extension cord - the gauge and length of the wiring from the panel to the receptacle, the load on that branch circuit, the load on your whole service, the gauge and length of your service conductors / feeders, heck even the load on neighbors service can affect your voltage at the receptacle.)
You didn't mention the manufacturer specifying a gauge for the 50' max extension cord, let's assume they figure you'll use a 14 gauge cord, and let's assume the saw draws a full 15A (which it probably does not). The voltage drop for that 14 gauge cord at 15 amps is about 3.79 volts. A 12 gauge cord 100' long at 15A will drop about 4.75 volts. So I'd feel completely confident with a 12 gauge 100' cord - one volt is negligible.
If you really want to test the voltage drop, testing at the end of the cord doesn't tell you anything because you need to see what the voltage is under load. If you really want to test this, and if you can do this safely, you could plug a receptacle splitter or power tap (rated for the load, of course) and check voltage while someone runs the saw full bore cutting wood.
edited yesterday
answered 2 days ago
batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson
10.9k11233
10.9k11233
1
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
2 days ago
4
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
2 days ago
3
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
2 days ago
2
I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+
– Ed Beal
2 days ago
1
@marcelm, thanks, you are correct, that was a typo, fixed.
– batsplatsterson
2 days ago
|
show 4 more comments
1
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
2 days ago
4
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
2 days ago
3
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
2 days ago
2
I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+
– Ed Beal
2 days ago
1
@marcelm, thanks, you are correct, that was a typo, fixed.
– batsplatsterson
2 days ago
1
1
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
2 days ago
good point about the splitter, can test once I buy a cord. Added lack of gauge spec to my question.
– TimCO
2 days ago
4
4
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
2 days ago
Note that "full bore" here means doing work (cutting a log). Just revving it results in relatively little current draw.
– isherwood
2 days ago
3
3
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
2 days ago
I would suggest the P3 Kill A Watt. I'm pretty sure it would make these measurements trivial.
– MonkeyZeus
2 days ago
2
2
I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+
– Ed Beal
2 days ago
I think the mfg's state an arbatary 50' to cover there butts. Yes voltage drop can be a problem with a long cord, I would look at the draw of the saw and as long the drop is less than 5% base my cord size on FLA of the motor. the chain saw will not be a continuous draw or I have never seen a chainsaw at full load for more than a few minutes at a time other than that I fully agree.+ also with @isherwoods single cord suggestion+
– Ed Beal
2 days ago
1
1
@marcelm, thanks, you are correct, that was a typo, fixed.
– batsplatsterson
2 days ago
@marcelm, thanks, you are correct, that was a typo, fixed.
– batsplatsterson
2 days ago
|
show 4 more comments
Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.
I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.
2
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
2 days ago
"I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.
– Mazura
2 days ago
add a comment |
Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.
I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.
2
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
2 days ago
"I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.
– Mazura
2 days ago
add a comment |
Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.
I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.
Yes, the critical issue is voltage drop due to resistance, which is both a function of conductor size and plug connections. One 100' #12 cord is better than two 50' #12 cords, for example, because there will be fewer contact connections.
I wouldn't hesitate to use your saw on a 100' #12 or #10 cord, assuming that you're not already at the end of a very long outlet circuit as well. You can check voltage across the plug contacts to make sure you're within about 5% of nominal (120v). As brhans pointed out in the comments, this would need to be done while the tool is under load.
edited 2 days ago
answered 2 days ago
isherwoodisherwood
46.8k455120
46.8k455120
2
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
2 days ago
"I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.
– Mazura
2 days ago
add a comment |
2
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
2 days ago
"I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.
– Mazura
2 days ago
2
2
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
2 days ago
Checking the voltage at the end of the cord will only give meaningful results if it's done while the saw is in use. Unloaded there'll be no measurable voltage drop over the length of the cord.
– brhans
2 days ago
"I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.
– Mazura
2 days ago
"I wouldn't hesitate" +1. The only times I've experienced voltage drops is when there's several hundred feet of crappy cords strung together.
– Mazura
2 days ago
add a comment |
You can decide what is the maximum cord length you should use for yourself, when you figure your max cord length for a given guage wire with :
V drop = ( K x P x L x A )/( M )
Where:
K = aproximate specific resistivity in ohm circular mils per foot
P = phase constant ( 2 fir 1 phase, 1.732 for 3 phase )
L = Wire length ( one way not there and back )
A = current in amperes
M = wire area in circular mills
Values for K are:
11 for solid or stranded copper 77 - 121 F
12 for solid or stranded copper 122 - 167 F
18 for solid aluminum 77-121 F
19 for stranded aluminum 77-121 F
20 for both aluminum 122-167 F
The wire circular mils can be easily looked up.
You want the V drop to be 2% or less.
Calculate that with ( V drop ) / ( V input )
Answers to you 3 questions...
Can I use a 10 or 12 guage cord?
10 guage = ( 11 x 2 x 100 x 15 ) / 10400 = 3.17308 V and 3.17308/120 = 0.026442 (2.64%)
12 guage = 9(11 x 2 x 100 x 15)/6530 = 5.0536 V and 5.0536/120 = 0.042113 (4.21%)
So I'd say No (a drop greater than 2% severely decreases efficiency and life of the equipment.)
is heat + powerloss the big problem? Again no, a drop greater than 2% will shorten the chainsaw motor's life.
Voltmeter measurements.
Well yes, you could measure the locked motor current to find the maximum current draw the chainsaw will ever use, but the chances of that happening irl are small. You could also measure running draw at load to get a precise number, but that's a good bit of work for little return.
Overall I'd say move your power source closer (a generator?), get a gas chainsaw, or live with the shortened life expectancy.
New contributor
thanks for formula. Shouldn't we also calculate voltage drop on 50' cord since that's allowed per spec (assume 14 gauge?) and see how that compares to 100'? Do you have a source to back up that 2% voltage drop statement? I've seen 3% and 5% mentioned but nobody other than NEC says how they came up with those numbers.
– TimCO
yesterday
A few years ago I had to spec a 1000 foot range for a heavy duty construction robot and in my search for informationmation I found this formula in Pocket Ref by Thomas Glover. The book says it's information comes from NEC and when I checked NEC just now they say 5% so it may have changed but I still prefer 2%, as a safety margin I'd now say 2-5% is probably ok. And it wouldn't hurt to compare 50ft 14 ga just to be sure. Here's the chart engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-circular-mils-d_819.html
– Karæthon
yesterday
add a comment |
You can decide what is the maximum cord length you should use for yourself, when you figure your max cord length for a given guage wire with :
V drop = ( K x P x L x A )/( M )
Where:
K = aproximate specific resistivity in ohm circular mils per foot
P = phase constant ( 2 fir 1 phase, 1.732 for 3 phase )
L = Wire length ( one way not there and back )
A = current in amperes
M = wire area in circular mills
Values for K are:
11 for solid or stranded copper 77 - 121 F
12 for solid or stranded copper 122 - 167 F
18 for solid aluminum 77-121 F
19 for stranded aluminum 77-121 F
20 for both aluminum 122-167 F
The wire circular mils can be easily looked up.
You want the V drop to be 2% or less.
Calculate that with ( V drop ) / ( V input )
Answers to you 3 questions...
Can I use a 10 or 12 guage cord?
10 guage = ( 11 x 2 x 100 x 15 ) / 10400 = 3.17308 V and 3.17308/120 = 0.026442 (2.64%)
12 guage = 9(11 x 2 x 100 x 15)/6530 = 5.0536 V and 5.0536/120 = 0.042113 (4.21%)
So I'd say No (a drop greater than 2% severely decreases efficiency and life of the equipment.)
is heat + powerloss the big problem? Again no, a drop greater than 2% will shorten the chainsaw motor's life.
Voltmeter measurements.
Well yes, you could measure the locked motor current to find the maximum current draw the chainsaw will ever use, but the chances of that happening irl are small. You could also measure running draw at load to get a precise number, but that's a good bit of work for little return.
Overall I'd say move your power source closer (a generator?), get a gas chainsaw, or live with the shortened life expectancy.
New contributor
thanks for formula. Shouldn't we also calculate voltage drop on 50' cord since that's allowed per spec (assume 14 gauge?) and see how that compares to 100'? Do you have a source to back up that 2% voltage drop statement? I've seen 3% and 5% mentioned but nobody other than NEC says how they came up with those numbers.
– TimCO
yesterday
A few years ago I had to spec a 1000 foot range for a heavy duty construction robot and in my search for informationmation I found this formula in Pocket Ref by Thomas Glover. The book says it's information comes from NEC and when I checked NEC just now they say 5% so it may have changed but I still prefer 2%, as a safety margin I'd now say 2-5% is probably ok. And it wouldn't hurt to compare 50ft 14 ga just to be sure. Here's the chart engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-circular-mils-d_819.html
– Karæthon
yesterday
add a comment |
You can decide what is the maximum cord length you should use for yourself, when you figure your max cord length for a given guage wire with :
V drop = ( K x P x L x A )/( M )
Where:
K = aproximate specific resistivity in ohm circular mils per foot
P = phase constant ( 2 fir 1 phase, 1.732 for 3 phase )
L = Wire length ( one way not there and back )
A = current in amperes
M = wire area in circular mills
Values for K are:
11 for solid or stranded copper 77 - 121 F
12 for solid or stranded copper 122 - 167 F
18 for solid aluminum 77-121 F
19 for stranded aluminum 77-121 F
20 for both aluminum 122-167 F
The wire circular mils can be easily looked up.
You want the V drop to be 2% or less.
Calculate that with ( V drop ) / ( V input )
Answers to you 3 questions...
Can I use a 10 or 12 guage cord?
10 guage = ( 11 x 2 x 100 x 15 ) / 10400 = 3.17308 V and 3.17308/120 = 0.026442 (2.64%)
12 guage = 9(11 x 2 x 100 x 15)/6530 = 5.0536 V and 5.0536/120 = 0.042113 (4.21%)
So I'd say No (a drop greater than 2% severely decreases efficiency and life of the equipment.)
is heat + powerloss the big problem? Again no, a drop greater than 2% will shorten the chainsaw motor's life.
Voltmeter measurements.
Well yes, you could measure the locked motor current to find the maximum current draw the chainsaw will ever use, but the chances of that happening irl are small. You could also measure running draw at load to get a precise number, but that's a good bit of work for little return.
Overall I'd say move your power source closer (a generator?), get a gas chainsaw, or live with the shortened life expectancy.
New contributor
You can decide what is the maximum cord length you should use for yourself, when you figure your max cord length for a given guage wire with :
V drop = ( K x P x L x A )/( M )
Where:
K = aproximate specific resistivity in ohm circular mils per foot
P = phase constant ( 2 fir 1 phase, 1.732 for 3 phase )
L = Wire length ( one way not there and back )
A = current in amperes
M = wire area in circular mills
Values for K are:
11 for solid or stranded copper 77 - 121 F
12 for solid or stranded copper 122 - 167 F
18 for solid aluminum 77-121 F
19 for stranded aluminum 77-121 F
20 for both aluminum 122-167 F
The wire circular mils can be easily looked up.
You want the V drop to be 2% or less.
Calculate that with ( V drop ) / ( V input )
Answers to you 3 questions...
Can I use a 10 or 12 guage cord?
10 guage = ( 11 x 2 x 100 x 15 ) / 10400 = 3.17308 V and 3.17308/120 = 0.026442 (2.64%)
12 guage = 9(11 x 2 x 100 x 15)/6530 = 5.0536 V and 5.0536/120 = 0.042113 (4.21%)
So I'd say No (a drop greater than 2% severely decreases efficiency and life of the equipment.)
is heat + powerloss the big problem? Again no, a drop greater than 2% will shorten the chainsaw motor's life.
Voltmeter measurements.
Well yes, you could measure the locked motor current to find the maximum current draw the chainsaw will ever use, but the chances of that happening irl are small. You could also measure running draw at load to get a precise number, but that's a good bit of work for little return.
Overall I'd say move your power source closer (a generator?), get a gas chainsaw, or live with the shortened life expectancy.
New contributor
edited yesterday
New contributor
answered 2 days ago
KaræthonKaræthon
112
112
New contributor
New contributor
thanks for formula. Shouldn't we also calculate voltage drop on 50' cord since that's allowed per spec (assume 14 gauge?) and see how that compares to 100'? Do you have a source to back up that 2% voltage drop statement? I've seen 3% and 5% mentioned but nobody other than NEC says how they came up with those numbers.
– TimCO
yesterday
A few years ago I had to spec a 1000 foot range for a heavy duty construction robot and in my search for informationmation I found this formula in Pocket Ref by Thomas Glover. The book says it's information comes from NEC and when I checked NEC just now they say 5% so it may have changed but I still prefer 2%, as a safety margin I'd now say 2-5% is probably ok. And it wouldn't hurt to compare 50ft 14 ga just to be sure. Here's the chart engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-circular-mils-d_819.html
– Karæthon
yesterday
add a comment |
thanks for formula. Shouldn't we also calculate voltage drop on 50' cord since that's allowed per spec (assume 14 gauge?) and see how that compares to 100'? Do you have a source to back up that 2% voltage drop statement? I've seen 3% and 5% mentioned but nobody other than NEC says how they came up with those numbers.
– TimCO
yesterday
A few years ago I had to spec a 1000 foot range for a heavy duty construction robot and in my search for informationmation I found this formula in Pocket Ref by Thomas Glover. The book says it's information comes from NEC and when I checked NEC just now they say 5% so it may have changed but I still prefer 2%, as a safety margin I'd now say 2-5% is probably ok. And it wouldn't hurt to compare 50ft 14 ga just to be sure. Here's the chart engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-circular-mils-d_819.html
– Karæthon
yesterday
thanks for formula. Shouldn't we also calculate voltage drop on 50' cord since that's allowed per spec (assume 14 gauge?) and see how that compares to 100'? Do you have a source to back up that 2% voltage drop statement? I've seen 3% and 5% mentioned but nobody other than NEC says how they came up with those numbers.
– TimCO
yesterday
thanks for formula. Shouldn't we also calculate voltage drop on 50' cord since that's allowed per spec (assume 14 gauge?) and see how that compares to 100'? Do you have a source to back up that 2% voltage drop statement? I've seen 3% and 5% mentioned but nobody other than NEC says how they came up with those numbers.
– TimCO
yesterday
A few years ago I had to spec a 1000 foot range for a heavy duty construction robot and in my search for informationmation I found this formula in Pocket Ref by Thomas Glover. The book says it's information comes from NEC and when I checked NEC just now they say 5% so it may have changed but I still prefer 2%, as a safety margin I'd now say 2-5% is probably ok. And it wouldn't hurt to compare 50ft 14 ga just to be sure. Here's the chart engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-circular-mils-d_819.html
– Karæthon
yesterday
A few years ago I had to spec a 1000 foot range for a heavy duty construction robot and in my search for informationmation I found this formula in Pocket Ref by Thomas Glover. The book says it's information comes from NEC and when I checked NEC just now they say 5% so it may have changed but I still prefer 2%, as a safety margin I'd now say 2-5% is probably ok. And it wouldn't hurt to compare 50ft 14 ga just to be sure. Here's the chart engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-wire-gauge-circular-mils-d_819.html
– Karæthon
yesterday
add a comment |
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Tip: chainsaws should run on gasoline, unless it's mounted on a pole and so small it wouldn't matter what cord you're using.
– Mazura
2 days ago
4
I like simplicity and I don't need the power of a gas engine. Gas saws require fresh gas, "winterizing" plus more if you're unlucky.
– TimCO
2 days ago
What size extension cord gauge would I need for a 12 amp electric mower if the cord is 250 feet long?
– Mazura
2 days ago
2
@Mazura: No, gas is awful to deal with. Dirty, fumes, mixing oil, getting old, heavy and unwieldy to use due to internal combustion engine, etc. Just no. Electric is the only reasonable choice.
– R..
2 days ago
Horsepower is the only reasonable consideration, but to each his own.
– Mazura
6 hours ago