Loctite and brakes











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I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.



There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.



Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.



Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?










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    up vote
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    down vote

    favorite












    I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.



    There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.



    Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.



    Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?










    share|improve this question







    New contributor




    Tᴚoɯɐuo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
    Check out our Code of Conduct.






















      up vote
      4
      down vote

      favorite









      up vote
      4
      down vote

      favorite











      I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.



      There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.



      Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.



      Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?










      share|improve this question







      New contributor




      Tᴚoɯɐuo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.











      I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.



      There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.



      Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.



      Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?







      brakes






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      Tᴚoɯɐuo is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.











      share|improve this question







      New contributor




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      Check out our Code of Conduct.









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      share|improve this question






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      asked Dec 14 at 16:54









      Tᴚoɯɐuo

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      1253




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          The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.



          As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.






          share|improve this answer





















          • Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
            – gschenk
            Dec 15 at 11:11






          • 1




            Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
            – Nathan Knutson
            Dec 15 at 21:40













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          1 Answer
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          active

          oldest

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          1 Answer
          1






          active

          oldest

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          active

          oldest

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          active

          oldest

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          up vote
          7
          down vote



          accepted










          The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.



          As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.






          share|improve this answer





















          • Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
            – gschenk
            Dec 15 at 11:11






          • 1




            Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
            – Nathan Knutson
            Dec 15 at 21:40

















          up vote
          7
          down vote



          accepted










          The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.



          As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.






          share|improve this answer





















          • Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
            – gschenk
            Dec 15 at 11:11






          • 1




            Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
            – Nathan Knutson
            Dec 15 at 21:40















          up vote
          7
          down vote



          accepted







          up vote
          7
          down vote



          accepted






          The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.



          As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.






          share|improve this answer












          The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.



          As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered Dec 14 at 17:38









          Nathan Knutson

          22.6k11857




          22.6k11857












          • Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
            – gschenk
            Dec 15 at 11:11






          • 1




            Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
            – Nathan Knutson
            Dec 15 at 21:40




















          • Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
            – gschenk
            Dec 15 at 11:11






          • 1




            Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
            – Nathan Knutson
            Dec 15 at 21:40


















          Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
          – gschenk
          Dec 15 at 11:11




          Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
          – gschenk
          Dec 15 at 11:11




          1




          1




          Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
          – Nathan Knutson
          Dec 15 at 21:40






          Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
          – Nathan Knutson
          Dec 15 at 21:40












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