Loctite and brakes
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.
There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.
Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.
Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?
brakes
New contributor
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.
There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.
Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.
Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?
brakes
New contributor
add a comment |
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
up vote
4
down vote
favorite
I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.
There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.
Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.
Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?
brakes
New contributor
I bought a second-hand bike. It has linear pull brakes. There is a tubular mount made of steel with a male thread which screws into the rear triangle of the bike's aluminum frame. Each brake is secured to such a mount with a hex-socket cap screw that threads into the mount's female-threaded tube.
There was orange loctite on that hex socket cap screw, which caused the entire mount to spin in the frame when the screw was turned, rather than the screw coming out of the mount.
Once I got the entire brake assembly out of the frame I was able to break the loctite bond by holding the mount on its (very skinny) wrench flats and then turning the socket cap screw CC.
Question: Should I put some Loctite (blue? orange?) on the mount itself so it is secured in the frame? Are there any issues when dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum, are bonded with Loctite?
brakes
brakes
New contributor
New contributor
New contributor
asked Dec 14 at 16:54
Tᴚoɯɐuo
1253
1253
New contributor
New contributor
add a comment |
add a comment |
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
up vote
7
down vote
accepted
The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.
As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.
Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
– gschenk
Dec 15 at 11:11
1
Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
– Nathan Knutson
Dec 15 at 21:40
add a comment |
Your Answer
StackExchange.ready(function() {
var channelOptions = {
tags: "".split(" "),
id: "126"
};
initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);
StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
// Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
createEditor();
});
}
else {
createEditor();
}
});
function createEditor() {
StackExchange.prepareEditor({
heartbeatType: 'answer',
autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
convertImagesToLinks: false,
noModals: true,
showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
reputationToPostImages: null,
bindNavPrevention: true,
postfix: "",
imageUploader: {
brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
allowUrls: true
},
noCode: true, onDemand: true,
discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
});
}
});
Tᴚoɯɐuo is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fbicycles.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f58519%2floctite-and-brakes%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
1 Answer
1
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
7
down vote
accepted
The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.
As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.
Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
– gschenk
Dec 15 at 11:11
1
Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
– Nathan Knutson
Dec 15 at 21:40
add a comment |
up vote
7
down vote
accepted
The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.
As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.
Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
– gschenk
Dec 15 at 11:11
1
Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
– Nathan Knutson
Dec 15 at 21:40
add a comment |
up vote
7
down vote
accepted
up vote
7
down vote
accepted
The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.
As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.
The part that screws into the frame is a removable cantilever boss. It's a good idea to use threadlocker on them as a precaution. Usually a higher strength one that's still seperable if needed is chosen, but medium/blue would be fine too. They should be torqued pretty heavily when installing. When they come loose, odds are it's because they were under-torqued to begin with. One approach is to pick out the old threadlocker and apply it again fresh so the old stuff isn't adding a bunch of friction to disrupt your torque feel, which would otherwise need to be accounted for.
As far as bikes are concerned, Loctite is pretty universally good at preventing corrosion and other issues between dissimilar metals in all the places you'd want it. It doesn't do much or anything to prevent galling, so in the few spots in bikes where that's a high concern you might choose something else.
answered Dec 14 at 17:38
Nathan Knutson
22.6k11857
22.6k11857
Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
– gschenk
Dec 15 at 11:11
1
Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
– Nathan Knutson
Dec 15 at 21:40
add a comment |
Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
– gschenk
Dec 15 at 11:11
1
Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
– Nathan Knutson
Dec 15 at 21:40
Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
– gschenk
Dec 15 at 11:11
Loctite is applied to surfaces in contact to prevent movement. Galling occurs when surfaces move relative to each other with insufficient lubrication. When may galling be relevant to loctitet surfaces? In other words which are those spots where loctite ought not be used?
– gschenk
Dec 15 at 11:11
1
1
Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
– Nathan Knutson
Dec 15 at 21:40
Stainless/stainless, ti/stainless, and ti/ti are all situations where I tend to go for anti-seize over anything else as a way of doing everything I can to prevent galling and other issues. I don't know that I'd universally say don't use Loctite there, but it provides less lubrication during installation than may be desired.
– Nathan Knutson
Dec 15 at 21:40
add a comment |
Tᴚoɯɐuo is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Tᴚoɯɐuo is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Tᴚoɯɐuo is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Tᴚoɯɐuo is a new contributor. Be nice, and check out our Code of Conduct.
Thanks for contributing an answer to Bicycles Stack Exchange!
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Some of your past answers have not been well-received, and you're in danger of being blocked from answering.
Please pay close attention to the following guidance:
- Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!
But avoid …
- Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.
- Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.
To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
StackExchange.ready(
function () {
StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fbicycles.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f58519%2floctite-and-brakes%23new-answer', 'question_page');
}
);
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Sign up or log in
StackExchange.ready(function () {
StackExchange.helpers.onClickDraftSave('#login-link');
});
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Sign up using Google
Sign up using Facebook
Sign up using Email and Password
Post as a guest
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown
Required, but never shown