Using 14 ga on part of a 20A circuit? [duplicate]












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  • 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge and 14 gauge wire

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I'm building an outdoor bbq and have a 20A circuit with 2 runs - 1 for outlets and 1 for lights. The outlets are done with 20A receptacles and 12 ga wire inside 1/2" emc.



The lights will be hanging pull lights (16 ga wire in the cord) and because it's a little cheaper and easier, I wanted to get power to the fixtures by 14 ga wire, also in 1/2" emc.



Is this a no-no? The only thing on this run would be 5 lights, so very low load.










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marked as duplicate by Machavity, ThreePhaseEel electrical
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2 hours ago


This question has been asked before and already has an answer. If those answers do not fully address your question, please ask a new question.























    1
















    This question already has an answer here:




    • 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge and 14 gauge wire

      2 answers




    I'm building an outdoor bbq and have a 20A circuit with 2 runs - 1 for outlets and 1 for lights. The outlets are done with 20A receptacles and 12 ga wire inside 1/2" emc.



    The lights will be hanging pull lights (16 ga wire in the cord) and because it's a little cheaper and easier, I wanted to get power to the fixtures by 14 ga wire, also in 1/2" emc.



    Is this a no-no? The only thing on this run would be 5 lights, so very low load.










    share|improve this question









    New contributor




    Bob Clendenin is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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    marked as duplicate by Machavity, ThreePhaseEel electrical
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    2 hours ago


    This question has been asked before and already has an answer. If those answers do not fully address your question, please ask a new question.





















      1












      1








      1









      This question already has an answer here:




      • 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge and 14 gauge wire

        2 answers




      I'm building an outdoor bbq and have a 20A circuit with 2 runs - 1 for outlets and 1 for lights. The outlets are done with 20A receptacles and 12 ga wire inside 1/2" emc.



      The lights will be hanging pull lights (16 ga wire in the cord) and because it's a little cheaper and easier, I wanted to get power to the fixtures by 14 ga wire, also in 1/2" emc.



      Is this a no-no? The only thing on this run would be 5 lights, so very low load.










      share|improve this question









      New contributor




      Bob Clendenin is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.













      This question already has an answer here:




      • 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge and 14 gauge wire

        2 answers




      I'm building an outdoor bbq and have a 20A circuit with 2 runs - 1 for outlets and 1 for lights. The outlets are done with 20A receptacles and 12 ga wire inside 1/2" emc.



      The lights will be hanging pull lights (16 ga wire in the cord) and because it's a little cheaper and easier, I wanted to get power to the fixtures by 14 ga wire, also in 1/2" emc.



      Is this a no-no? The only thing on this run would be 5 lights, so very low load.





      This question already has an answer here:




      • 20 amp breaker with 12 gauge and 14 gauge wire

        2 answers








      electrical wiring






      share|improve this question









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      Bob Clendenin is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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      share|improve this question









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      share|improve this question




      share|improve this question








      edited 4 hours ago









      Machavity

      7,54111837




      7,54111837






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      asked 7 hours ago









      Bob ClendeninBob Clendenin

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      marked as duplicate by Machavity, ThreePhaseEel electrical
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      2 hours ago


      This question has been asked before and already has an answer. If those answers do not fully address your question, please ask a new question.









      marked as duplicate by Machavity, ThreePhaseEel electrical
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      2 hours ago


      This question has been asked before and already has an answer. If those answers do not fully address your question, please ask a new question.
























          3 Answers
          3






          active

          oldest

          votes


















          10














          You can't do this unless you change the breaker to 15A. The 16 AWG wire as part of the lamps is allowed because the lamps, by design, will never have more power going through them. But the wires you put in could, someday, have additional power - perhaps another owner decides to put more lights or convert one to a receptacle for outdoor power tools. You can't control all of that (as much as you think you can) so you have to stick to the rules. 12 AWG for 20 A. 14 AWG for 15 A. You can have a mix of 12 & 14 on a 15 A circuit, but can't do that on a 20 A circuit because the circuit breaker has to be small enough to protect all the wires connected to it.






          share|improve this answer































            3














            You could do it if you switched to 15A breakers, but you can't wire the 20A circuit with 14 gauge wire.



            In EMT, it will be almost no difference in time or money to do this with 12 gauge wire.






            share|improve this answer































              1














              The lamps have been UL listed to allow the smaller wire, and that wire will go no farther than a junction box. And the lamp is in the jurisdiction of UL's rules and the product safety laws, not NEC.



              In conduit, you are running single wires called THHN (or THWN-2, or the more deluxe XHHW) unless you are a masochist. The cost between #12 and #14 is fairly minor; I have 10 colors of THHN and I don't even bother owning any #14, just do it all in #12.



              If your concern is that #12 wire is stiffer, than definitely use stranded #12 THHN. The stuff is a total pleasure to work with, though it can take a knack to twisting it tightly enough to put it on receptacle screws. Just get the $3 Leviton screw-to-clamp type receptacles and switches, that solves that.



              If your concern is #12 won't fit in backstabs, that is correct, but backstabs are a reliability disaster and cause a tremendous number of arcing and unreliable connection complaints, so I would use the screws or screw-to-clamp.






              share|improve this answer






























                3 Answers
                3






                active

                oldest

                votes








                3 Answers
                3






                active

                oldest

                votes









                active

                oldest

                votes






                active

                oldest

                votes









                10














                You can't do this unless you change the breaker to 15A. The 16 AWG wire as part of the lamps is allowed because the lamps, by design, will never have more power going through them. But the wires you put in could, someday, have additional power - perhaps another owner decides to put more lights or convert one to a receptacle for outdoor power tools. You can't control all of that (as much as you think you can) so you have to stick to the rules. 12 AWG for 20 A. 14 AWG for 15 A. You can have a mix of 12 & 14 on a 15 A circuit, but can't do that on a 20 A circuit because the circuit breaker has to be small enough to protect all the wires connected to it.






                share|improve this answer




























                  10














                  You can't do this unless you change the breaker to 15A. The 16 AWG wire as part of the lamps is allowed because the lamps, by design, will never have more power going through them. But the wires you put in could, someday, have additional power - perhaps another owner decides to put more lights or convert one to a receptacle for outdoor power tools. You can't control all of that (as much as you think you can) so you have to stick to the rules. 12 AWG for 20 A. 14 AWG for 15 A. You can have a mix of 12 & 14 on a 15 A circuit, but can't do that on a 20 A circuit because the circuit breaker has to be small enough to protect all the wires connected to it.






                  share|improve this answer


























                    10












                    10








                    10







                    You can't do this unless you change the breaker to 15A. The 16 AWG wire as part of the lamps is allowed because the lamps, by design, will never have more power going through them. But the wires you put in could, someday, have additional power - perhaps another owner decides to put more lights or convert one to a receptacle for outdoor power tools. You can't control all of that (as much as you think you can) so you have to stick to the rules. 12 AWG for 20 A. 14 AWG for 15 A. You can have a mix of 12 & 14 on a 15 A circuit, but can't do that on a 20 A circuit because the circuit breaker has to be small enough to protect all the wires connected to it.






                    share|improve this answer













                    You can't do this unless you change the breaker to 15A. The 16 AWG wire as part of the lamps is allowed because the lamps, by design, will never have more power going through them. But the wires you put in could, someday, have additional power - perhaps another owner decides to put more lights or convert one to a receptacle for outdoor power tools. You can't control all of that (as much as you think you can) so you have to stick to the rules. 12 AWG for 20 A. 14 AWG for 15 A. You can have a mix of 12 & 14 on a 15 A circuit, but can't do that on a 20 A circuit because the circuit breaker has to be small enough to protect all the wires connected to it.







                    share|improve this answer












                    share|improve this answer



                    share|improve this answer










                    answered 7 hours ago









                    manassehkatzmanassehkatz

                    8,6321134




                    8,6321134

























                        3














                        You could do it if you switched to 15A breakers, but you can't wire the 20A circuit with 14 gauge wire.



                        In EMT, it will be almost no difference in time or money to do this with 12 gauge wire.






                        share|improve this answer




























                          3














                          You could do it if you switched to 15A breakers, but you can't wire the 20A circuit with 14 gauge wire.



                          In EMT, it will be almost no difference in time or money to do this with 12 gauge wire.






                          share|improve this answer


























                            3












                            3








                            3







                            You could do it if you switched to 15A breakers, but you can't wire the 20A circuit with 14 gauge wire.



                            In EMT, it will be almost no difference in time or money to do this with 12 gauge wire.






                            share|improve this answer













                            You could do it if you switched to 15A breakers, but you can't wire the 20A circuit with 14 gauge wire.



                            In EMT, it will be almost no difference in time or money to do this with 12 gauge wire.







                            share|improve this answer












                            share|improve this answer



                            share|improve this answer










                            answered 7 hours ago









                            batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson

                            12.2k11537




                            12.2k11537























                                1














                                The lamps have been UL listed to allow the smaller wire, and that wire will go no farther than a junction box. And the lamp is in the jurisdiction of UL's rules and the product safety laws, not NEC.



                                In conduit, you are running single wires called THHN (or THWN-2, or the more deluxe XHHW) unless you are a masochist. The cost between #12 and #14 is fairly minor; I have 10 colors of THHN and I don't even bother owning any #14, just do it all in #12.



                                If your concern is that #12 wire is stiffer, than definitely use stranded #12 THHN. The stuff is a total pleasure to work with, though it can take a knack to twisting it tightly enough to put it on receptacle screws. Just get the $3 Leviton screw-to-clamp type receptacles and switches, that solves that.



                                If your concern is #12 won't fit in backstabs, that is correct, but backstabs are a reliability disaster and cause a tremendous number of arcing and unreliable connection complaints, so I would use the screws or screw-to-clamp.






                                share|improve this answer




























                                  1














                                  The lamps have been UL listed to allow the smaller wire, and that wire will go no farther than a junction box. And the lamp is in the jurisdiction of UL's rules and the product safety laws, not NEC.



                                  In conduit, you are running single wires called THHN (or THWN-2, or the more deluxe XHHW) unless you are a masochist. The cost between #12 and #14 is fairly minor; I have 10 colors of THHN and I don't even bother owning any #14, just do it all in #12.



                                  If your concern is that #12 wire is stiffer, than definitely use stranded #12 THHN. The stuff is a total pleasure to work with, though it can take a knack to twisting it tightly enough to put it on receptacle screws. Just get the $3 Leviton screw-to-clamp type receptacles and switches, that solves that.



                                  If your concern is #12 won't fit in backstabs, that is correct, but backstabs are a reliability disaster and cause a tremendous number of arcing and unreliable connection complaints, so I would use the screws or screw-to-clamp.






                                  share|improve this answer


























                                    1












                                    1








                                    1







                                    The lamps have been UL listed to allow the smaller wire, and that wire will go no farther than a junction box. And the lamp is in the jurisdiction of UL's rules and the product safety laws, not NEC.



                                    In conduit, you are running single wires called THHN (or THWN-2, or the more deluxe XHHW) unless you are a masochist. The cost between #12 and #14 is fairly minor; I have 10 colors of THHN and I don't even bother owning any #14, just do it all in #12.



                                    If your concern is that #12 wire is stiffer, than definitely use stranded #12 THHN. The stuff is a total pleasure to work with, though it can take a knack to twisting it tightly enough to put it on receptacle screws. Just get the $3 Leviton screw-to-clamp type receptacles and switches, that solves that.



                                    If your concern is #12 won't fit in backstabs, that is correct, but backstabs are a reliability disaster and cause a tremendous number of arcing and unreliable connection complaints, so I would use the screws or screw-to-clamp.






                                    share|improve this answer













                                    The lamps have been UL listed to allow the smaller wire, and that wire will go no farther than a junction box. And the lamp is in the jurisdiction of UL's rules and the product safety laws, not NEC.



                                    In conduit, you are running single wires called THHN (or THWN-2, or the more deluxe XHHW) unless you are a masochist. The cost between #12 and #14 is fairly minor; I have 10 colors of THHN and I don't even bother owning any #14, just do it all in #12.



                                    If your concern is that #12 wire is stiffer, than definitely use stranded #12 THHN. The stuff is a total pleasure to work with, though it can take a knack to twisting it tightly enough to put it on receptacle screws. Just get the $3 Leviton screw-to-clamp type receptacles and switches, that solves that.



                                    If your concern is #12 won't fit in backstabs, that is correct, but backstabs are a reliability disaster and cause a tremendous number of arcing and unreliable connection complaints, so I would use the screws or screw-to-clamp.







                                    share|improve this answer












                                    share|improve this answer



                                    share|improve this answer










                                    answered 5 hours ago









                                    HarperHarper

                                    71k447142




                                    71k447142















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