How can I square up slots cut with a circular saw?












4















I used a drop-saw to create these slots:



enter image description here



Due to the circular blade, it's obviously left a bit of the wood in place, more easily seen here:



enter image description here



My question is how can I clean up these slots? I've considered filing, of course, and I'd be happy to buy a file that fits if that's the best option. But there's a lot of wood there and I think filing would take a long time.



I also thought of chiseling. Again, I don't have a chisel that fits, but am happy to purchase. However, I can't see how it would actually work. Sure, I could chisel the sides of the slot, but then how would I actually knock the bit of wood out? I'd need a tiny chisel to fit the slot - 5mm or less.



Are there other options?










share|improve this question









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  • do multiple cuts using the drop saw

    – jsotola
    yesterday
















4















I used a drop-saw to create these slots:



enter image description here



Due to the circular blade, it's obviously left a bit of the wood in place, more easily seen here:



enter image description here



My question is how can I clean up these slots? I've considered filing, of course, and I'd be happy to buy a file that fits if that's the best option. But there's a lot of wood there and I think filing would take a long time.



I also thought of chiseling. Again, I don't have a chisel that fits, but am happy to purchase. However, I can't see how it would actually work. Sure, I could chisel the sides of the slot, but then how would I actually knock the bit of wood out? I'd need a tiny chisel to fit the slot - 5mm or less.



Are there other options?










share|improve this question









New contributor




me-- is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.





















  • do multiple cuts using the drop saw

    – jsotola
    yesterday














4












4








4








I used a drop-saw to create these slots:



enter image description here



Due to the circular blade, it's obviously left a bit of the wood in place, more easily seen here:



enter image description here



My question is how can I clean up these slots? I've considered filing, of course, and I'd be happy to buy a file that fits if that's the best option. But there's a lot of wood there and I think filing would take a long time.



I also thought of chiseling. Again, I don't have a chisel that fits, but am happy to purchase. However, I can't see how it would actually work. Sure, I could chisel the sides of the slot, but then how would I actually knock the bit of wood out? I'd need a tiny chisel to fit the slot - 5mm or less.



Are there other options?










share|improve this question









New contributor




me-- is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.












I used a drop-saw to create these slots:



enter image description here



Due to the circular blade, it's obviously left a bit of the wood in place, more easily seen here:



enter image description here



My question is how can I clean up these slots? I've considered filing, of course, and I'd be happy to buy a file that fits if that's the best option. But there's a lot of wood there and I think filing would take a long time.



I also thought of chiseling. Again, I don't have a chisel that fits, but am happy to purchase. However, I can't see how it would actually work. Sure, I could chisel the sides of the slot, but then how would I actually knock the bit of wood out? I'd need a tiny chisel to fit the slot - 5mm or less.



Are there other options?







woodworking






share|improve this question









New contributor




me-- is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.











share|improve this question









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Check out our Code of Conduct.









share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited 2 days ago









isherwood

46.1k454117




46.1k454117






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asked 2 days ago









me--me--

1213




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  • do multiple cuts using the drop saw

    – jsotola
    yesterday



















  • do multiple cuts using the drop saw

    – jsotola
    yesterday

















do multiple cuts using the drop saw

– jsotola
yesterday





do multiple cuts using the drop saw

– jsotola
yesterday










5 Answers
5






active

oldest

votes


















12














Use a hand saw on either side to take the sides all the way down to full depth, then a chisel to remove what's left between the two saw cuts.






share|improve this answer



















  • 1





    Exactly what I was going to propose.

    – Michael Karas
    2 days ago






  • 1





    To chisel it out, lay the board flat with the waste side up. Set the edge of the chisel on the line where you want the slot to end i.e. from the one handsaw kerf to the other. Press down to make a mark. Check your line. Place the chisel back in the line with the bevel towards the slot. Then with a mallet, a deadblow hammer, or side of a claw hammer, tap the chisel. The grain should split easily and the extra bit of waste will pop out.

    – JimmyJames
    2 days ago



















3














A handsaw or jigsaw does the job, but it usually results in visibly less sharp final cuts. It's very difficult to keep perfectly parallel, and you usually have more tearout with those saws.



I'll often simply raise the blade back up partway and tilt the front of the workpiece upward to square it with the cutting arc of the blade. It'll help to have a cut mark on the underside of the piece as well.



Move slowly, alternately watching the upper and lower faces of the board to check cut depth. Adjust blade height and board angle incrementally until the right combination is found.



Brace the workpiece against the fence or use a jig block to prevent it from shifting sideways. Keep the blade spinning at full speed while it's engaged with the workpiece to prevent grab, saw jump, and tearout.






share|improve this answer





















  • 1





    I've used this method, and many miter saws have a settable stop so the blade doesn't go too deep if you're worried about that.

    – JPhi1618
    2 days ago






  • 1





    If you wanted to make that whole thing a notch, cut a bunch more slits, bonk 'em out with a hammer, and then use your technique but move it back and forth too. Keep it against the fence and your hands free of where they would collide with the saw when it binds.

    – Mazura
    2 days ago





















0














If you haven't already- adjust the blade to full depth, this will make an almost vertical cut. Make the cut from both sides to your line. There should be a very small point of wood in the slot which you can clean up with a file or coarse sandpaper wrapped around a ruler.






share|improve this answer








New contributor




Niteowll is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.




























    -1














    There are small circular saws which could used to remove high spots on the sides of the slots. One of these could also remove more material.



    But before buying one of those, I would try coarse sandpaper wrapped around a piece of wood that just fits into the slot. Either that or a rasp (the name for a wood file).






    share|improve this answer































      -1














      If you do this with a hand saw use one that has the teeth of the blade sharpened flat instead of angled out with set like a typical hand saw. This will lead to a smoother cut that remains even with the sides of the slot.



      Saw with set in teeth:



      enter image description here



      (Picture Source: http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Tools/Sharpening/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws.htm)



      ** Saw with no set in teeth:**



      enter image description here



      (Picture Source: http://www.blackburntools.com/articles/saw-tooth-geometry/index.html)






      share|improve this answer










      New contributor




      Lowell Weaver is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.





















      • Welcome to DIY.SE! Can you add something that demonstrates or illustrates your answer?

        – Machavity
        2 days ago











      Your Answer








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      5 Answers
      5






      active

      oldest

      votes








      5 Answers
      5






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      12














      Use a hand saw on either side to take the sides all the way down to full depth, then a chisel to remove what's left between the two saw cuts.






      share|improve this answer



















      • 1





        Exactly what I was going to propose.

        – Michael Karas
        2 days ago






      • 1





        To chisel it out, lay the board flat with the waste side up. Set the edge of the chisel on the line where you want the slot to end i.e. from the one handsaw kerf to the other. Press down to make a mark. Check your line. Place the chisel back in the line with the bevel towards the slot. Then with a mallet, a deadblow hammer, or side of a claw hammer, tap the chisel. The grain should split easily and the extra bit of waste will pop out.

        – JimmyJames
        2 days ago
















      12














      Use a hand saw on either side to take the sides all the way down to full depth, then a chisel to remove what's left between the two saw cuts.






      share|improve this answer



















      • 1





        Exactly what I was going to propose.

        – Michael Karas
        2 days ago






      • 1





        To chisel it out, lay the board flat with the waste side up. Set the edge of the chisel on the line where you want the slot to end i.e. from the one handsaw kerf to the other. Press down to make a mark. Check your line. Place the chisel back in the line with the bevel towards the slot. Then with a mallet, a deadblow hammer, or side of a claw hammer, tap the chisel. The grain should split easily and the extra bit of waste will pop out.

        – JimmyJames
        2 days ago














      12












      12








      12







      Use a hand saw on either side to take the sides all the way down to full depth, then a chisel to remove what's left between the two saw cuts.






      share|improve this answer













      Use a hand saw on either side to take the sides all the way down to full depth, then a chisel to remove what's left between the two saw cuts.







      share|improve this answer












      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer










      answered 2 days ago









      batsplatstersonbatsplatsterson

      10.5k11230




      10.5k11230








      • 1





        Exactly what I was going to propose.

        – Michael Karas
        2 days ago






      • 1





        To chisel it out, lay the board flat with the waste side up. Set the edge of the chisel on the line where you want the slot to end i.e. from the one handsaw kerf to the other. Press down to make a mark. Check your line. Place the chisel back in the line with the bevel towards the slot. Then with a mallet, a deadblow hammer, or side of a claw hammer, tap the chisel. The grain should split easily and the extra bit of waste will pop out.

        – JimmyJames
        2 days ago














      • 1





        Exactly what I was going to propose.

        – Michael Karas
        2 days ago






      • 1





        To chisel it out, lay the board flat with the waste side up. Set the edge of the chisel on the line where you want the slot to end i.e. from the one handsaw kerf to the other. Press down to make a mark. Check your line. Place the chisel back in the line with the bevel towards the slot. Then with a mallet, a deadblow hammer, or side of a claw hammer, tap the chisel. The grain should split easily and the extra bit of waste will pop out.

        – JimmyJames
        2 days ago








      1




      1





      Exactly what I was going to propose.

      – Michael Karas
      2 days ago





      Exactly what I was going to propose.

      – Michael Karas
      2 days ago




      1




      1





      To chisel it out, lay the board flat with the waste side up. Set the edge of the chisel on the line where you want the slot to end i.e. from the one handsaw kerf to the other. Press down to make a mark. Check your line. Place the chisel back in the line with the bevel towards the slot. Then with a mallet, a deadblow hammer, or side of a claw hammer, tap the chisel. The grain should split easily and the extra bit of waste will pop out.

      – JimmyJames
      2 days ago





      To chisel it out, lay the board flat with the waste side up. Set the edge of the chisel on the line where you want the slot to end i.e. from the one handsaw kerf to the other. Press down to make a mark. Check your line. Place the chisel back in the line with the bevel towards the slot. Then with a mallet, a deadblow hammer, or side of a claw hammer, tap the chisel. The grain should split easily and the extra bit of waste will pop out.

      – JimmyJames
      2 days ago













      3














      A handsaw or jigsaw does the job, but it usually results in visibly less sharp final cuts. It's very difficult to keep perfectly parallel, and you usually have more tearout with those saws.



      I'll often simply raise the blade back up partway and tilt the front of the workpiece upward to square it with the cutting arc of the blade. It'll help to have a cut mark on the underside of the piece as well.



      Move slowly, alternately watching the upper and lower faces of the board to check cut depth. Adjust blade height and board angle incrementally until the right combination is found.



      Brace the workpiece against the fence or use a jig block to prevent it from shifting sideways. Keep the blade spinning at full speed while it's engaged with the workpiece to prevent grab, saw jump, and tearout.






      share|improve this answer





















      • 1





        I've used this method, and many miter saws have a settable stop so the blade doesn't go too deep if you're worried about that.

        – JPhi1618
        2 days ago






      • 1





        If you wanted to make that whole thing a notch, cut a bunch more slits, bonk 'em out with a hammer, and then use your technique but move it back and forth too. Keep it against the fence and your hands free of where they would collide with the saw when it binds.

        – Mazura
        2 days ago


















      3














      A handsaw or jigsaw does the job, but it usually results in visibly less sharp final cuts. It's very difficult to keep perfectly parallel, and you usually have more tearout with those saws.



      I'll often simply raise the blade back up partway and tilt the front of the workpiece upward to square it with the cutting arc of the blade. It'll help to have a cut mark on the underside of the piece as well.



      Move slowly, alternately watching the upper and lower faces of the board to check cut depth. Adjust blade height and board angle incrementally until the right combination is found.



      Brace the workpiece against the fence or use a jig block to prevent it from shifting sideways. Keep the blade spinning at full speed while it's engaged with the workpiece to prevent grab, saw jump, and tearout.






      share|improve this answer





















      • 1





        I've used this method, and many miter saws have a settable stop so the blade doesn't go too deep if you're worried about that.

        – JPhi1618
        2 days ago






      • 1





        If you wanted to make that whole thing a notch, cut a bunch more slits, bonk 'em out with a hammer, and then use your technique but move it back and forth too. Keep it against the fence and your hands free of where they would collide with the saw when it binds.

        – Mazura
        2 days ago
















      3












      3








      3







      A handsaw or jigsaw does the job, but it usually results in visibly less sharp final cuts. It's very difficult to keep perfectly parallel, and you usually have more tearout with those saws.



      I'll often simply raise the blade back up partway and tilt the front of the workpiece upward to square it with the cutting arc of the blade. It'll help to have a cut mark on the underside of the piece as well.



      Move slowly, alternately watching the upper and lower faces of the board to check cut depth. Adjust blade height and board angle incrementally until the right combination is found.



      Brace the workpiece against the fence or use a jig block to prevent it from shifting sideways. Keep the blade spinning at full speed while it's engaged with the workpiece to prevent grab, saw jump, and tearout.






      share|improve this answer















      A handsaw or jigsaw does the job, but it usually results in visibly less sharp final cuts. It's very difficult to keep perfectly parallel, and you usually have more tearout with those saws.



      I'll often simply raise the blade back up partway and tilt the front of the workpiece upward to square it with the cutting arc of the blade. It'll help to have a cut mark on the underside of the piece as well.



      Move slowly, alternately watching the upper and lower faces of the board to check cut depth. Adjust blade height and board angle incrementally until the right combination is found.



      Brace the workpiece against the fence or use a jig block to prevent it from shifting sideways. Keep the blade spinning at full speed while it's engaged with the workpiece to prevent grab, saw jump, and tearout.







      share|improve this answer














      share|improve this answer



      share|improve this answer








      edited 2 days ago

























      answered 2 days ago









      isherwoodisherwood

      46.1k454117




      46.1k454117








      • 1





        I've used this method, and many miter saws have a settable stop so the blade doesn't go too deep if you're worried about that.

        – JPhi1618
        2 days ago






      • 1





        If you wanted to make that whole thing a notch, cut a bunch more slits, bonk 'em out with a hammer, and then use your technique but move it back and forth too. Keep it against the fence and your hands free of where they would collide with the saw when it binds.

        – Mazura
        2 days ago
















      • 1





        I've used this method, and many miter saws have a settable stop so the blade doesn't go too deep if you're worried about that.

        – JPhi1618
        2 days ago






      • 1





        If you wanted to make that whole thing a notch, cut a bunch more slits, bonk 'em out with a hammer, and then use your technique but move it back and forth too. Keep it against the fence and your hands free of where they would collide with the saw when it binds.

        – Mazura
        2 days ago










      1




      1





      I've used this method, and many miter saws have a settable stop so the blade doesn't go too deep if you're worried about that.

      – JPhi1618
      2 days ago





      I've used this method, and many miter saws have a settable stop so the blade doesn't go too deep if you're worried about that.

      – JPhi1618
      2 days ago




      1




      1





      If you wanted to make that whole thing a notch, cut a bunch more slits, bonk 'em out with a hammer, and then use your technique but move it back and forth too. Keep it against the fence and your hands free of where they would collide with the saw when it binds.

      – Mazura
      2 days ago







      If you wanted to make that whole thing a notch, cut a bunch more slits, bonk 'em out with a hammer, and then use your technique but move it back and forth too. Keep it against the fence and your hands free of where they would collide with the saw when it binds.

      – Mazura
      2 days ago













      0














      If you haven't already- adjust the blade to full depth, this will make an almost vertical cut. Make the cut from both sides to your line. There should be a very small point of wood in the slot which you can clean up with a file or coarse sandpaper wrapped around a ruler.






      share|improve this answer








      New contributor




      Niteowll is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
      Check out our Code of Conduct.

























        0














        If you haven't already- adjust the blade to full depth, this will make an almost vertical cut. Make the cut from both sides to your line. There should be a very small point of wood in the slot which you can clean up with a file or coarse sandpaper wrapped around a ruler.






        share|improve this answer








        New contributor




        Niteowll is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
        Check out our Code of Conduct.























          0












          0








          0







          If you haven't already- adjust the blade to full depth, this will make an almost vertical cut. Make the cut from both sides to your line. There should be a very small point of wood in the slot which you can clean up with a file or coarse sandpaper wrapped around a ruler.






          share|improve this answer








          New contributor




          Niteowll is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.










          If you haven't already- adjust the blade to full depth, this will make an almost vertical cut. Make the cut from both sides to your line. There should be a very small point of wood in the slot which you can clean up with a file or coarse sandpaper wrapped around a ruler.







          share|improve this answer








          New contributor




          Niteowll is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.









          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer






          New contributor




          Niteowll is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.









          answered 2 days ago









          NiteowllNiteowll

          1




          1




          New contributor




          Niteowll is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
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          New contributor





          Niteowll is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.






          Niteowll is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
          Check out our Code of Conduct.























              -1














              There are small circular saws which could used to remove high spots on the sides of the slots. One of these could also remove more material.



              But before buying one of those, I would try coarse sandpaper wrapped around a piece of wood that just fits into the slot. Either that or a rasp (the name for a wood file).






              share|improve this answer




























                -1














                There are small circular saws which could used to remove high spots on the sides of the slots. One of these could also remove more material.



                But before buying one of those, I would try coarse sandpaper wrapped around a piece of wood that just fits into the slot. Either that or a rasp (the name for a wood file).






                share|improve this answer


























                  -1












                  -1








                  -1







                  There are small circular saws which could used to remove high spots on the sides of the slots. One of these could also remove more material.



                  But before buying one of those, I would try coarse sandpaper wrapped around a piece of wood that just fits into the slot. Either that or a rasp (the name for a wood file).






                  share|improve this answer













                  There are small circular saws which could used to remove high spots on the sides of the slots. One of these could also remove more material.



                  But before buying one of those, I would try coarse sandpaper wrapped around a piece of wood that just fits into the slot. Either that or a rasp (the name for a wood file).







                  share|improve this answer












                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer










                  answered 2 days ago









                  Jim StewartJim Stewart

                  10.8k11230




                  10.8k11230























                      -1














                      If you do this with a hand saw use one that has the teeth of the blade sharpened flat instead of angled out with set like a typical hand saw. This will lead to a smoother cut that remains even with the sides of the slot.



                      Saw with set in teeth:



                      enter image description here



                      (Picture Source: http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Tools/Sharpening/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws.htm)



                      ** Saw with no set in teeth:**



                      enter image description here



                      (Picture Source: http://www.blackburntools.com/articles/saw-tooth-geometry/index.html)






                      share|improve this answer










                      New contributor




                      Lowell Weaver is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                      Check out our Code of Conduct.





















                      • Welcome to DIY.SE! Can you add something that demonstrates or illustrates your answer?

                        – Machavity
                        2 days ago
















                      -1














                      If you do this with a hand saw use one that has the teeth of the blade sharpened flat instead of angled out with set like a typical hand saw. This will lead to a smoother cut that remains even with the sides of the slot.



                      Saw with set in teeth:



                      enter image description here



                      (Picture Source: http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Tools/Sharpening/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws.htm)



                      ** Saw with no set in teeth:**



                      enter image description here



                      (Picture Source: http://www.blackburntools.com/articles/saw-tooth-geometry/index.html)






                      share|improve this answer










                      New contributor




                      Lowell Weaver is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                      Check out our Code of Conduct.





















                      • Welcome to DIY.SE! Can you add something that demonstrates or illustrates your answer?

                        – Machavity
                        2 days ago














                      -1












                      -1








                      -1







                      If you do this with a hand saw use one that has the teeth of the blade sharpened flat instead of angled out with set like a typical hand saw. This will lead to a smoother cut that remains even with the sides of the slot.



                      Saw with set in teeth:



                      enter image description here



                      (Picture Source: http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Tools/Sharpening/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws.htm)



                      ** Saw with no set in teeth:**



                      enter image description here



                      (Picture Source: http://www.blackburntools.com/articles/saw-tooth-geometry/index.html)






                      share|improve this answer










                      New contributor




                      Lowell Weaver is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
                      Check out our Code of Conduct.










                      If you do this with a hand saw use one that has the teeth of the blade sharpened flat instead of angled out with set like a typical hand saw. This will lead to a smoother cut that remains even with the sides of the slot.



                      Saw with set in teeth:



                      enter image description here



                      (Picture Source: http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Tools/Sharpening/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws/8_Sharpening_Hand_Saws.htm)



                      ** Saw with no set in teeth:**



                      enter image description here



                      (Picture Source: http://www.blackburntools.com/articles/saw-tooth-geometry/index.html)







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                      edited 2 days ago









                      Michael Karas

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                      answered 2 days ago









                      Lowell WeaverLowell Weaver

                      1




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