What are these circular splotches on my negatives?
up vote
6
down vote
favorite
This is my first roll of Tri-X 400, developed with D76 using Massive Dev's chart in this order:
- developer
- stop bath (tap water)
- fixer
- tap water (quick 1 minute wash)
- Photo Flo (2 minutes)
- tap water (final wash, 11 minutes)
then off to the scanner the next day (V500 flatbed) for scanning.
There are some weird effects going on however, as well as the usual pixelated look I've grown accustomed to with flatbed scanning 35mm.
I've highlighted the spots in the photos below:
I am wondering what this is and how I can fix it. Using distilled water maybe?
film black-and-white developing kodak
edited 2 days ago
Aethenosity
1032
asked 2 days ago
star_trac
906
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
favorite
This is my first roll of Tri-X 400, developed with D76 using Massive Dev's chart in this order:
- developer
- stop bath (tap water)
- fixer
- tap water (quick 1 minute wash)
- Photo Flo (2 minutes)
- tap water (final wash, 11 minutes)
then off to the scanner the next day (V500 flatbed) for scanning.
There are some weird effects going on however, as well as the usual pixelated look I've grown accustomed to with flatbed scanning 35mm.
I've highlighted the spots in the photos below:
I am wondering what this is and how I can fix it. Using distilled water maybe?
film black-and-white developing kodak
edited 2 days ago
Aethenosity
1032
asked 2 days ago
star_trac
906
5
It would be helpful if you could find a title which describes what makes this question unique, rather than one which notes that it isn't. :) That will make it easier in the future when people come across it in a search — and will probably help you get better answers.
– mattdm
2 days ago
3
Darn, I thought this question was going to be about Sasquatch.
– Clickety Ricket
2 days ago
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
favorite
up vote
6
down vote
favorite
This is my first roll of Tri-X 400, developed with D76 using Massive Dev's chart in this order:
- developer
- stop bath (tap water)
- fixer
- tap water (quick 1 minute wash)
- Photo Flo (2 minutes)
- tap water (final wash, 11 minutes)
then off to the scanner the next day (V500 flatbed) for scanning.
There are some weird effects going on however, as well as the usual pixelated look I've grown accustomed to with flatbed scanning 35mm.
I've highlighted the spots in the photos below:
I am wondering what this is and how I can fix it. Using distilled water maybe?
film black-and-white developing kodak
edited 2 days ago
Aethenosity
1032
asked 2 days ago
star_trac
906
This is my first roll of Tri-X 400, developed with D76 using Massive Dev's chart in this order:
- developer
- stop bath (tap water)
- fixer
- tap water (quick 1 minute wash)
- Photo Flo (2 minutes)
- tap water (final wash, 11 minutes)
then off to the scanner the next day (V500 flatbed) for scanning.
There are some weird effects going on however, as well as the usual pixelated look I've grown accustomed to with flatbed scanning 35mm.
I've highlighted the spots in the photos below:
I am wondering what this is and how I can fix it. Using distilled water maybe?
film black-and-white developing kodak
film black-and-white developing kodak
edited 2 days ago
Aethenosity
1032
asked 2 days ago
star_trac
906
edited 2 days ago
Aethenosity
1032
asked 2 days ago
star_trac
906
edited 2 days ago
Aethenosity
1032
edited 2 days ago
Aethenosity
1032
edited 2 days ago
Aethenosity
1032
1032
asked 2 days ago
star_trac
906
asked 2 days ago
star_trac
906
asked 2 days ago
star_trac
906
906
5
It would be helpful if you could find a title which describes what makes this question unique, rather than one which notes that it isn't. :) That will make it easier in the future when people come across it in a search — and will probably help you get better answers.
– mattdm
2 days ago
3
Darn, I thought this question was going to be about Sasquatch.
– Clickety Ricket
2 days ago
add a comment |
5
It would be helpful if you could find a title which describes what makes this question unique, rather than one which notes that it isn't. :) That will make it easier in the future when people come across it in a search — and will probably help you get better answers.
– mattdm
2 days ago
3
Darn, I thought this question was going to be about Sasquatch.
– Clickety Ricket
2 days ago
5
5
It would be helpful if you could find a title which describes what makes this question unique, rather than one which notes that it isn't. :) That will make it easier in the future when people come across it in a search — and will probably help you get better answers.
– mattdm
2 days ago
It would be helpful if you could find a title which describes what makes this question unique, rather than one which notes that it isn't. :) That will make it easier in the future when people come across it in a search — and will probably help you get better answers.
– mattdm
2 days ago
3
3
Darn, I thought this question was going to be about Sasquatch.
– Clickety Ricket
2 days ago
Darn, I thought this question was going to be about Sasquatch.
– Clickety Ricket
2 days ago
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
up vote
8
down vote
accepted
You have two problems.
The one you've noticed is water spots remaining on the negatives when the film has been hung to dry.
Re-washing and drying may help. It may not remedy the problem if the emulsion side of the film is affected.
After the fixer bath, wash longer than you have been to get rid of ALL the fixer that has been absorbed by the emulsion. Always strive to keep all the liquids at the same temperature to avoid stressing the emulsion which has absorbed the processing solutions. The swollen emulsion is fragile.
Instead of plain water, a 30 second acid stop bath accomplishes three things: The change in pH from base to acid will put the breaks on the developer almost immediately to ensure correct development times. It will help to preserve the fixer from being diluted by the residual high pH carried into the fix from the developer. AND the change in pH will help compress the swollen emulsion to "squeeze" more of the developer out of the emulsion faster than plain water.
Washing longer allows all the fixer to migrate from inside the emulsion into the wash water. This takes time. 20 to 30 minutes is minimal. Archival wash is more like an hour unless you use Hypo (fixer) Eliminator. Ensure the wash water temperature is the same as your other solutions (20°C - 68°F optimal) and does not fluctuate. A quick dip into diluted (according to instructions - more is not better) wetting agent will lessen the possibility for drops to form on the film surface. Wash a minute or two more to remove the wetting agent and you can hang the film in a clean, dust free place to dry.
(By the way, the water spot on the first image is very much like those you find on negatives that have had insufficient washing. The tiny white spots in the larger one is a symptom I've seen before with short washes.)
Remember that the chemicals work in the emulsion not only on the surface of it.
Your second problem is the scratches on the film emulsion from squeegee-ing the film to get rid of the water.
Either let the film hang freely to let the water drain off it or make damn sure that your fingers, chamois, or blade is absolutely and perfectly clean, minimally moist, and lightly applied or the damage will be permanent and difficult to remove. (The eye can spot an unwanted scratch line faster than any other pattern I can think of right now.)
One more thing™ The total time in the fixer should be "twice the time the film takes to clear." This "time" can be determined experimentally by immersing an unprocessed chip of film in the fixer and carefully time how long it takes to become transparent. Double this time is the correct length of time for the fixer bath. Longer than this time is not necessary or helpful.
Good Luck
answered 2 days ago
Stan
3,693820
I didn't mention squeegee-ing the film; I let the film hang dry in a closet, I don't touch the negatives after developing. I've been following the massive dev developing guides in the app for the film stock I'm using and have had much better luck with Kentmere 400, so I'm weary to deviate from those times, but I will definitely try a much longer final wash period with filtered water and possibly an acid bath for stopping instead of H20. Thank you
– star_trac
2 days ago
@star_trac Have a close look at the film path and at the position of the longitudinal scratches. Perhaps there was something in the cassette light lock fabric or film pressure plate. Check to see if the position changes. At any rate, make sure the film chamber is clear of anything.
– Stan
2 days ago
@star_trac Increasing your wash time will do no harm. If you do not completely rid the emulsion of K- or Na- thiosulphate fixer, the silver will react and slowly become a silver sulphide which will slowly fade whereas metallic silver is much more stable. Occasionally you'll see elderly prints that have "blacks" that appear mottled, brown and beige—that's what's happened. The same thing happens to film too.
– Stan
2 days ago
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
A short final wash in distilled water with a wetting agent is always a good practice. Consider Ilford Ilfotol or Tetenal Mirasol or something of the like.
Distilled water in development and fixing is not as crucial as in the final wash - unless your tap water is especially hard it should have little effect. The D76 by Kodak is a tolerant soup (if you mix your own, which is very exciting but perhaps not ideal for starters, it would be a different matter).
answered 2 days ago
Jindra Lacko
5,310635
1
If distilled water is not readily accessible, filtered deionized water (water run through water "softener" and reverse osmosis filter) should be okay.
– xiota
2 days ago
I did mix my own D76 with tap water. Being just downstream of the rockies, our water is pretty hard. Next time I will use distilled water in the final wash and with the Photo Flo, and use the Photo Flo very last in the process.
– star_trac
2 days ago
add a comment |
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
2 Answers
2
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
up vote
8
down vote
accepted
You have two problems.
The one you've noticed is water spots remaining on the negatives when the film has been hung to dry.
Re-washing and drying may help. It may not remedy the problem if the emulsion side of the film is affected.
After the fixer bath, wash longer than you have been to get rid of ALL the fixer that has been absorbed by the emulsion. Always strive to keep all the liquids at the same temperature to avoid stressing the emulsion which has absorbed the processing solutions. The swollen emulsion is fragile.
Instead of plain water, a 30 second acid stop bath accomplishes three things: The change in pH from base to acid will put the breaks on the developer almost immediately to ensure correct development times. It will help to preserve the fixer from being diluted by the residual high pH carried into the fix from the developer. AND the change in pH will help compress the swollen emulsion to "squeeze" more of the developer out of the emulsion faster than plain water.
Washing longer allows all the fixer to migrate from inside the emulsion into the wash water. This takes time. 20 to 30 minutes is minimal. Archival wash is more like an hour unless you use Hypo (fixer) Eliminator. Ensure the wash water temperature is the same as your other solutions (20°C - 68°F optimal) and does not fluctuate. A quick dip into diluted (according to instructions - more is not better) wetting agent will lessen the possibility for drops to form on the film surface. Wash a minute or two more to remove the wetting agent and you can hang the film in a clean, dust free place to dry.
(By the way, the water spot on the first image is very much like those you find on negatives that have had insufficient washing. The tiny white spots in the larger one is a symptom I've seen before with short washes.)
Remember that the chemicals work in the emulsion not only on the surface of it.
Your second problem is the scratches on the film emulsion from squeegee-ing the film to get rid of the water.
Either let the film hang freely to let the water drain off it or make damn sure that your fingers, chamois, or blade is absolutely and perfectly clean, minimally moist, and lightly applied or the damage will be permanent and difficult to remove. (The eye can spot an unwanted scratch line faster than any other pattern I can think of right now.)
One more thing™ The total time in the fixer should be "twice the time the film takes to clear." This "time" can be determined experimentally by immersing an unprocessed chip of film in the fixer and carefully time how long it takes to become transparent. Double this time is the correct length of time for the fixer bath. Longer than this time is not necessary or helpful.
Good Luck
answered 2 days ago
Stan
3,693820
I didn't mention squeegee-ing the film; I let the film hang dry in a closet, I don't touch the negatives after developing. I've been following the massive dev developing guides in the app for the film stock I'm using and have had much better luck with Kentmere 400, so I'm weary to deviate from those times, but I will definitely try a much longer final wash period with filtered water and possibly an acid bath for stopping instead of H20. Thank you
– star_trac
2 days ago
@star_trac Have a close look at the film path and at the position of the longitudinal scratches. Perhaps there was something in the cassette light lock fabric or film pressure plate. Check to see if the position changes. At any rate, make sure the film chamber is clear of anything.
– Stan
2 days ago
@star_trac Increasing your wash time will do no harm. If you do not completely rid the emulsion of K- or Na- thiosulphate fixer, the silver will react and slowly become a silver sulphide which will slowly fade whereas metallic silver is much more stable. Occasionally you'll see elderly prints that have "blacks" that appear mottled, brown and beige—that's what's happened. The same thing happens to film too.
– Stan
2 days ago
add a comment |
up vote
8
down vote
accepted
You have two problems.
The one you've noticed is water spots remaining on the negatives when the film has been hung to dry.
Re-washing and drying may help. It may not remedy the problem if the emulsion side of the film is affected.
After the fixer bath, wash longer than you have been to get rid of ALL the fixer that has been absorbed by the emulsion. Always strive to keep all the liquids at the same temperature to avoid stressing the emulsion which has absorbed the processing solutions. The swollen emulsion is fragile.
Instead of plain water, a 30 second acid stop bath accomplishes three things: The change in pH from base to acid will put the breaks on the developer almost immediately to ensure correct development times. It will help to preserve the fixer from being diluted by the residual high pH carried into the fix from the developer. AND the change in pH will help compress the swollen emulsion to "squeeze" more of the developer out of the emulsion faster than plain water.
Washing longer allows all the fixer to migrate from inside the emulsion into the wash water. This takes time. 20 to 30 minutes is minimal. Archival wash is more like an hour unless you use Hypo (fixer) Eliminator. Ensure the wash water temperature is the same as your other solutions (20°C - 68°F optimal) and does not fluctuate. A quick dip into diluted (according to instructions - more is not better) wetting agent will lessen the possibility for drops to form on the film surface. Wash a minute or two more to remove the wetting agent and you can hang the film in a clean, dust free place to dry.
(By the way, the water spot on the first image is very much like those you find on negatives that have had insufficient washing. The tiny white spots in the larger one is a symptom I've seen before with short washes.)
Remember that the chemicals work in the emulsion not only on the surface of it.
Your second problem is the scratches on the film emulsion from squeegee-ing the film to get rid of the water.
Either let the film hang freely to let the water drain off it or make damn sure that your fingers, chamois, or blade is absolutely and perfectly clean, minimally moist, and lightly applied or the damage will be permanent and difficult to remove. (The eye can spot an unwanted scratch line faster than any other pattern I can think of right now.)
One more thing™ The total time in the fixer should be "twice the time the film takes to clear." This "time" can be determined experimentally by immersing an unprocessed chip of film in the fixer and carefully time how long it takes to become transparent. Double this time is the correct length of time for the fixer bath. Longer than this time is not necessary or helpful.
Good Luck
answered 2 days ago
Stan
3,693820
I didn't mention squeegee-ing the film; I let the film hang dry in a closet, I don't touch the negatives after developing. I've been following the massive dev developing guides in the app for the film stock I'm using and have had much better luck with Kentmere 400, so I'm weary to deviate from those times, but I will definitely try a much longer final wash period with filtered water and possibly an acid bath for stopping instead of H20. Thank you
– star_trac
2 days ago
@star_trac Have a close look at the film path and at the position of the longitudinal scratches. Perhaps there was something in the cassette light lock fabric or film pressure plate. Check to see if the position changes. At any rate, make sure the film chamber is clear of anything.
– Stan
2 days ago
@star_trac Increasing your wash time will do no harm. If you do not completely rid the emulsion of K- or Na- thiosulphate fixer, the silver will react and slowly become a silver sulphide which will slowly fade whereas metallic silver is much more stable. Occasionally you'll see elderly prints that have "blacks" that appear mottled, brown and beige—that's what's happened. The same thing happens to film too.
– Stan
2 days ago
add a comment |
up vote
8
down vote
accepted
up vote
8
down vote
accepted
You have two problems.
The one you've noticed is water spots remaining on the negatives when the film has been hung to dry.
Re-washing and drying may help. It may not remedy the problem if the emulsion side of the film is affected.
After the fixer bath, wash longer than you have been to get rid of ALL the fixer that has been absorbed by the emulsion. Always strive to keep all the liquids at the same temperature to avoid stressing the emulsion which has absorbed the processing solutions. The swollen emulsion is fragile.
Instead of plain water, a 30 second acid stop bath accomplishes three things: The change in pH from base to acid will put the breaks on the developer almost immediately to ensure correct development times. It will help to preserve the fixer from being diluted by the residual high pH carried into the fix from the developer. AND the change in pH will help compress the swollen emulsion to "squeeze" more of the developer out of the emulsion faster than plain water.
Washing longer allows all the fixer to migrate from inside the emulsion into the wash water. This takes time. 20 to 30 minutes is minimal. Archival wash is more like an hour unless you use Hypo (fixer) Eliminator. Ensure the wash water temperature is the same as your other solutions (20°C - 68°F optimal) and does not fluctuate. A quick dip into diluted (according to instructions - more is not better) wetting agent will lessen the possibility for drops to form on the film surface. Wash a minute or two more to remove the wetting agent and you can hang the film in a clean, dust free place to dry.
(By the way, the water spot on the first image is very much like those you find on negatives that have had insufficient washing. The tiny white spots in the larger one is a symptom I've seen before with short washes.)
Remember that the chemicals work in the emulsion not only on the surface of it.
Your second problem is the scratches on the film emulsion from squeegee-ing the film to get rid of the water.
Either let the film hang freely to let the water drain off it or make damn sure that your fingers, chamois, or blade is absolutely and perfectly clean, minimally moist, and lightly applied or the damage will be permanent and difficult to remove. (The eye can spot an unwanted scratch line faster than any other pattern I can think of right now.)
One more thing™ The total time in the fixer should be "twice the time the film takes to clear." This "time" can be determined experimentally by immersing an unprocessed chip of film in the fixer and carefully time how long it takes to become transparent. Double this time is the correct length of time for the fixer bath. Longer than this time is not necessary or helpful.
Good Luck
answered 2 days ago
Stan
3,693820
You have two problems.
The one you've noticed is water spots remaining on the negatives when the film has been hung to dry.
Re-washing and drying may help. It may not remedy the problem if the emulsion side of the film is affected.
After the fixer bath, wash longer than you have been to get rid of ALL the fixer that has been absorbed by the emulsion. Always strive to keep all the liquids at the same temperature to avoid stressing the emulsion which has absorbed the processing solutions. The swollen emulsion is fragile.
Instead of plain water, a 30 second acid stop bath accomplishes three things: The change in pH from base to acid will put the breaks on the developer almost immediately to ensure correct development times. It will help to preserve the fixer from being diluted by the residual high pH carried into the fix from the developer. AND the change in pH will help compress the swollen emulsion to "squeeze" more of the developer out of the emulsion faster than plain water.
Washing longer allows all the fixer to migrate from inside the emulsion into the wash water. This takes time. 20 to 30 minutes is minimal. Archival wash is more like an hour unless you use Hypo (fixer) Eliminator. Ensure the wash water temperature is the same as your other solutions (20°C - 68°F optimal) and does not fluctuate. A quick dip into diluted (according to instructions - more is not better) wetting agent will lessen the possibility for drops to form on the film surface. Wash a minute or two more to remove the wetting agent and you can hang the film in a clean, dust free place to dry.
(By the way, the water spot on the first image is very much like those you find on negatives that have had insufficient washing. The tiny white spots in the larger one is a symptom I've seen before with short washes.)
Remember that the chemicals work in the emulsion not only on the surface of it.
Your second problem is the scratches on the film emulsion from squeegee-ing the film to get rid of the water.
Either let the film hang freely to let the water drain off it or make damn sure that your fingers, chamois, or blade is absolutely and perfectly clean, minimally moist, and lightly applied or the damage will be permanent and difficult to remove. (The eye can spot an unwanted scratch line faster than any other pattern I can think of right now.)
One more thing™ The total time in the fixer should be "twice the time the film takes to clear." This "time" can be determined experimentally by immersing an unprocessed chip of film in the fixer and carefully time how long it takes to become transparent. Double this time is the correct length of time for the fixer bath. Longer than this time is not necessary or helpful.
Good Luck
answered 2 days ago
Stan
3,693820
answered 2 days ago
Stan
3,693820
answered 2 days ago
Stan
3,693820
answered 2 days ago
Stan
3,693820
3,693820
I didn't mention squeegee-ing the film; I let the film hang dry in a closet, I don't touch the negatives after developing. I've been following the massive dev developing guides in the app for the film stock I'm using and have had much better luck with Kentmere 400, so I'm weary to deviate from those times, but I will definitely try a much longer final wash period with filtered water and possibly an acid bath for stopping instead of H20. Thank you
– star_trac
2 days ago
@star_trac Have a close look at the film path and at the position of the longitudinal scratches. Perhaps there was something in the cassette light lock fabric or film pressure plate. Check to see if the position changes. At any rate, make sure the film chamber is clear of anything.
– Stan
2 days ago
@star_trac Increasing your wash time will do no harm. If you do not completely rid the emulsion of K- or Na- thiosulphate fixer, the silver will react and slowly become a silver sulphide which will slowly fade whereas metallic silver is much more stable. Occasionally you'll see elderly prints that have "blacks" that appear mottled, brown and beige—that's what's happened. The same thing happens to film too.
– Stan
2 days ago
add a comment |
I didn't mention squeegee-ing the film; I let the film hang dry in a closet, I don't touch the negatives after developing. I've been following the massive dev developing guides in the app for the film stock I'm using and have had much better luck with Kentmere 400, so I'm weary to deviate from those times, but I will definitely try a much longer final wash period with filtered water and possibly an acid bath for stopping instead of H20. Thank you
– star_trac
2 days ago
@star_trac Have a close look at the film path and at the position of the longitudinal scratches. Perhaps there was something in the cassette light lock fabric or film pressure plate. Check to see if the position changes. At any rate, make sure the film chamber is clear of anything.
– Stan
2 days ago
@star_trac Increasing your wash time will do no harm. If you do not completely rid the emulsion of K- or Na- thiosulphate fixer, the silver will react and slowly become a silver sulphide which will slowly fade whereas metallic silver is much more stable. Occasionally you'll see elderly prints that have "blacks" that appear mottled, brown and beige—that's what's happened. The same thing happens to film too.
– Stan
2 days ago
I didn't mention squeegee-ing the film; I let the film hang dry in a closet, I don't touch the negatives after developing. I've been following the massive dev developing guides in the app for the film stock I'm using and have had much better luck with Kentmere 400, so I'm weary to deviate from those times, but I will definitely try a much longer final wash period with filtered water and possibly an acid bath for stopping instead of H20. Thank you
– star_trac
2 days ago
I didn't mention squeegee-ing the film; I let the film hang dry in a closet, I don't touch the negatives after developing. I've been following the massive dev developing guides in the app for the film stock I'm using and have had much better luck with Kentmere 400, so I'm weary to deviate from those times, but I will definitely try a much longer final wash period with filtered water and possibly an acid bath for stopping instead of H20. Thank you
– star_trac
2 days ago
@star_trac Have a close look at the film path and at the position of the longitudinal scratches. Perhaps there was something in the cassette light lock fabric or film pressure plate. Check to see if the position changes. At any rate, make sure the film chamber is clear of anything.
– Stan
2 days ago
@star_trac Have a close look at the film path and at the position of the longitudinal scratches. Perhaps there was something in the cassette light lock fabric or film pressure plate. Check to see if the position changes. At any rate, make sure the film chamber is clear of anything.
– Stan
2 days ago
@star_trac Increasing your wash time will do no harm. If you do not completely rid the emulsion of K- or Na- thiosulphate fixer, the silver will react and slowly become a silver sulphide which will slowly fade whereas metallic silver is much more stable. Occasionally you'll see elderly prints that have "blacks" that appear mottled, brown and beige—that's what's happened. The same thing happens to film too.
– Stan
2 days ago
@star_trac Increasing your wash time will do no harm. If you do not completely rid the emulsion of K- or Na- thiosulphate fixer, the silver will react and slowly become a silver sulphide which will slowly fade whereas metallic silver is much more stable. Occasionally you'll see elderly prints that have "blacks" that appear mottled, brown and beige—that's what's happened. The same thing happens to film too.
– Stan
2 days ago
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
A short final wash in distilled water with a wetting agent is always a good practice. Consider Ilford Ilfotol or Tetenal Mirasol or something of the like.
Distilled water in development and fixing is not as crucial as in the final wash - unless your tap water is especially hard it should have little effect. The D76 by Kodak is a tolerant soup (if you mix your own, which is very exciting but perhaps not ideal for starters, it would be a different matter).
answered 2 days ago
Jindra Lacko
5,310635
1
If distilled water is not readily accessible, filtered deionized water (water run through water "softener" and reverse osmosis filter) should be okay.
– xiota
2 days ago
I did mix my own D76 with tap water. Being just downstream of the rockies, our water is pretty hard. Next time I will use distilled water in the final wash and with the Photo Flo, and use the Photo Flo very last in the process.
– star_trac
2 days ago
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
A short final wash in distilled water with a wetting agent is always a good practice. Consider Ilford Ilfotol or Tetenal Mirasol or something of the like.
Distilled water in development and fixing is not as crucial as in the final wash - unless your tap water is especially hard it should have little effect. The D76 by Kodak is a tolerant soup (if you mix your own, which is very exciting but perhaps not ideal for starters, it would be a different matter).
answered 2 days ago
Jindra Lacko
5,310635
1
If distilled water is not readily accessible, filtered deionized water (water run through water "softener" and reverse osmosis filter) should be okay.
– xiota
2 days ago
I did mix my own D76 with tap water. Being just downstream of the rockies, our water is pretty hard. Next time I will use distilled water in the final wash and with the Photo Flo, and use the Photo Flo very last in the process.
– star_trac
2 days ago
add a comment |
up vote
6
down vote
up vote
6
down vote
A short final wash in distilled water with a wetting agent is always a good practice. Consider Ilford Ilfotol or Tetenal Mirasol or something of the like.
Distilled water in development and fixing is not as crucial as in the final wash - unless your tap water is especially hard it should have little effect. The D76 by Kodak is a tolerant soup (if you mix your own, which is very exciting but perhaps not ideal for starters, it would be a different matter).
answered 2 days ago
Jindra Lacko
5,310635
A short final wash in distilled water with a wetting agent is always a good practice. Consider Ilford Ilfotol or Tetenal Mirasol or something of the like.
Distilled water in development and fixing is not as crucial as in the final wash - unless your tap water is especially hard it should have little effect. The D76 by Kodak is a tolerant soup (if you mix your own, which is very exciting but perhaps not ideal for starters, it would be a different matter).
answered 2 days ago
Jindra Lacko
5,310635
answered 2 days ago
Jindra Lacko
5,310635
answered 2 days ago
Jindra Lacko
5,310635
answered 2 days ago
Jindra Lacko
5,310635
5,310635
1
If distilled water is not readily accessible, filtered deionized water (water run through water "softener" and reverse osmosis filter) should be okay.
– xiota
2 days ago
I did mix my own D76 with tap water. Being just downstream of the rockies, our water is pretty hard. Next time I will use distilled water in the final wash and with the Photo Flo, and use the Photo Flo very last in the process.
– star_trac
2 days ago
add a comment |
1
If distilled water is not readily accessible, filtered deionized water (water run through water "softener" and reverse osmosis filter) should be okay.
– xiota
2 days ago
I did mix my own D76 with tap water. Being just downstream of the rockies, our water is pretty hard. Next time I will use distilled water in the final wash and with the Photo Flo, and use the Photo Flo very last in the process.
– star_trac
2 days ago
1
1
If distilled water is not readily accessible, filtered deionized water (water run through water "softener" and reverse osmosis filter) should be okay.
– xiota
2 days ago
If distilled water is not readily accessible, filtered deionized water (water run through water "softener" and reverse osmosis filter) should be okay.
– xiota
2 days ago
I did mix my own D76 with tap water. Being just downstream of the rockies, our water is pretty hard. Next time I will use distilled water in the final wash and with the Photo Flo, and use the Photo Flo very last in the process.
– star_trac
2 days ago
I did mix my own D76 with tap water. Being just downstream of the rockies, our water is pretty hard. Next time I will use distilled water in the final wash and with the Photo Flo, and use the Photo Flo very last in the process.
– star_trac
2 days ago
add a comment |
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5
It would be helpful if you could find a title which describes what makes this question unique, rather than one which notes that it isn't. :) That will make it easier in the future when people come across it in a search — and will probably help you get better answers.
– mattdm
2 days ago
3
Darn, I thought this question was going to be about Sasquatch.
– Clickety Ricket
2 days ago